Privacy Trees
A great privacy screen changes how your whole property feels—quieter, calmer, and more “yours.” Privacy trees do that job in the most natural way: a living wall that softens views, blocks winter winds, and keeps outdoor spaces usable for more months of the year. This collection focuses on proven evergreen performers—arborvitae, cypress, juniper, spruce, and holly—so you can match your screen to your space (tall and fast, narrow and tidy, or dense and wind-tough). And while evergreens aren’t chosen for showy flowers, some screen staples do have seasonal “bloom” in their own way: eastern redcedar’s pollen cones can show from winter into early spring, and arborvitae releases pollen in late spring into early summer.
The secret to privacy that lasts is planning for maturity, not just quick coverage. A single row can work beautifully, but if you want a thicker, more resilient screen, Penn State notes that multiple staggered rows (two or three rows) create stronger privacy and wind protection. Pruning can stay simple, too—Penn State’s guidance for needled evergreens generally points to late winter to early spring as the best timing before new growth develops, and good spacing helps reduce stress and disease pressure long term. We Grow Together Promise applies here: pick the right tree for the site, plant it well, and you’ll feel the payoff every day.
Get real privacy fast with a living evergreen screen.
Privacy trees are the fastest way to turn an open yard into an outdoor room. Instead of waiting for fencing (and still feeling exposed in winter), a dense evergreen screen blocks views year-round and provides a softer, more natural boundary that ages well. This collection is built around classic screening categories—arborvitae, cypress, juniper, spruce, and holly—so you can choose the look (tall column, broad pyramid, or dense hedge effect) that fits your property.
These trees also solve more than “nosey neighbor” problems. A well-planned screen can function as a windbreak, help reduce drifting snow, and create a calmer microclimate for patios, play areas, and foundation plantings. Penn State’s windbreak guidance emphasizes multi-row planning and staggered arrangements for stronger performance, which is why “living walls” often feel best when they’re designed with depth rather than a single straight line.
For small properties, narrow forms and tight footprints matter as much as speed. Upright evergreens can give you strong vertical coverage without eating the whole yard, and a single-row hedge can still deliver a clean, upscale look when spacing and pruning are done thoughtfully. If you have the room, adding a second staggered row builds density faster and prevents the “one gap ruins everything” problem when a single plant struggles.
See what you’re planting, from shape and size to seasonal interest.
Most privacy trees are evergreen first and foremost—meaning foliage density is the feature you’re buying. Arborvitae is widely used for screens because it can be full and tall while still staying relatively narrow compared with many broad-canopy trees, but site conditions matter: some arborvitae types thin dramatically in full shade, and exposed, windy sites can contribute to winter burn. Matching tree type to sun and site exposure is the difference between a screen that thrives and one that struggles.
“Bloom window” for evergreens is usually about pollen and cones rather than showy flowers, but it’s still useful context—especially for allergy-sensitive households. The USDA’s Fire Effects Information System notes that Thuja occidentalis disperses pollen from late April to June, and NC State notes that eastern redcedar “blooms” (pollen cones) from roughly January to March. That seasonal pollen timing won’t matter to most shoppers, but it’s a real-world detail worth knowing.
If your privacy plan includes broadleaf evergreens like holly, you’ll also get a different kind of seasonal interest. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center lists American holly bloom time across spring into early summer (with tiny flowers), and holly’s berry display (on female plants with pollination) can add winter color and bird value—privacy that also feels decorative.
Plant them for maximum coverage with smart spacing.
Start with the screen style: single row for a clean hedge line, or staggered rows for thicker coverage. Penn State specifically recommends installing multiple staggered rows (two or three rows) for privacy and wind screening, and spacing plants based on the average mature diameter. Translation: plan for the canopy you will have, not the pot you’re holding today.
If you want a quick, dense “green wall,” closer spacing can work—but overcrowding increases stress over time, especially as trees mature and compete for water and root space. Extension guidance on Leyland cypress disease management emphasizes adequate spacing to avoid stress from overcrowding as trees grow, a helpful reminder that fast-growing screens still need breathing room. A little patience in spacing usually pays you back with healthier foliage and fewer long-term problems.
Place screens where they can actually function: along property lines, behind patios, or to block winter winds, while keeping enough clearance from structures for mature width and maintenance access. For windbreak-style performance, Penn State suggests rows set apart (their windbreak guidance discusses row spacing and staggered arrangements), which supports airflow and reduces the “crowded, damp interior” that can invite disease. In tight yards, the equivalent is simple: leave room to walk behind the hedge, prune lightly, and monitor pests.
Keep the hedge healthy with simple care and the right pruning window.
For needled evergreens commonly used as privacy trees, Penn State notes the best pruning time is usually late winter to early spring before new growth develops. This timing supports clean shaping without constantly shearing off fresh growth, and it makes it easier to see the hedge's structure while you prune. Emergency pruning (broken or dangerous limbs) is always an exception—safety comes first.
Pest and disease awareness is what keeps privacy trees from turning into a surprise project. The University of Maryland Extension highlights bagworms as a serious pest—especially on conifers like arborvitae, cedar, and juniper—so checking foliage regularly (especially in summer) matters. Catching them early is far easier than trying to recover a plant after heavy defoliation.
If you’re considering Leyland cypress, go in with eyes open on canker risk and hygiene. Mississippi State Extension notes management steps like removing diseased branches by cutting below the canker edge, avoiding pruning when trees are wet, and disinfecting tools (e.g., with 70% isopropyl alcohol), plus the importance of proper depth, moist, well-drained soil, and adequate spacing to reduce stress. It can still be a strong privacy tree in the right site, but it rewards good practices.