All Perennials
Perennials are the “plant once, enjoy for years” backbone of a great landscape. Most garden perennials are herbaceous, meaning the top growth dies back with cold weather and returns from the roots or crown when conditions warm—so you get a fresh, tidy start each spring without replanting the whole bed.
This collection is your shortcut to designing by results: spring wake-up color, summer-long flower power, and late-season blooms that carry the garden toward frost—plus foliage plants that keep beds looking good between bloom waves. The key is simple: match plants to the light you actually have (full sun is commonly defined as 6+ hours of direct sun), give each plant enough room to mature, and keep care consistent while roots establish. That’s the We Grow Together Promise—clear guidance, fewer surprises, and perennials that settle in and perform season after season.
Build a garden that looks better every year.
All perennials aren’t one “style”—they’re a toolkit for real-life landscapes. Mix mounding plants for crisp edges, upright bloomers for mid-border color, and taller anchors that give beds height, and you get a layered look that stays intentional from the street and enjoyable up close.
Because perennials come back and often expand over time, the smartest gardens are planned around the mature plant—not the small nursery pot. When you give each plant its future elbow room, you’ll spend less time moving things later, and you’ll get fuller flowering as clumps thicken naturally over the seasons.
This “all” view is also the easiest way to shop by conditions and goals in one place—sun vs. shade, short vs. tall, early color vs. late-season finish. It’s especially useful when you want to build a bed that blooms in waves instead of peaking once and fading fast.
See what blooms when, and plan your color.
Bloom windows vary by plant, but perennials as a category can cover the whole growing season—spring through fall—if you choose a few “relay teams.” A simple strategy is to pair early bloomers with summer repeat performers, then finish with late-season flowers that keep color going when many gardens are slowing down.
Texture is the secret sauce that makes an all-perennial bed feel designed. Even when flowers pause between flushes, foliage forms—spiky, mounded, airy, bold-leaved—keep the bed looking finished, and seedheads can add late-season character if you choose to leave them.
Mature size and growth rate are “variety-specific,” so the win is planning with ranges and then confirming each plant’s listing. As a practical bed-building guide, many gardeners space dwarf perennials roughly 6–12 inches apart, mid-size plants 12–18 inches apart, and taller border plants 18–36 inches apart—then adjust wider for vigorous spreaders and tighter only when you’re intentionally filling fast.
Match the right perennial to your light.
Light is the first filter, because it drives flower count, stem strength, and how often you’ll fight stress issues. “Full sun” is commonly defined as about six or more hours of direct sun daily, while partial sun/partial shade often sits in the 4–6 hour range—so observing your yard’s real sun pattern is one of the most valuable “garden moves” you can make.
Once you know your light, you can place perennials by function: brighten a foundation bed, soften a walkway edge, build pollinator lanes, stabilize a slope, or fill large containers with seasonal color that doesn’t quit. The best results come from choosing plants whose natural habit matches the job (mounding for edging, upright for height, spreading for groundcover) and giving them airflow-friendly spacing.
For spacing ranges, start with a plant’s mature width when it’s available, then use the tier guide as your safety net: roughly 6–12 inches (dwarf), 12–18 inches (mid), 18–36 inches (tall). This keeps plants from crowding too soon, helps foliage dry faster after rain or watering, and reduces the “why is everything getting mildewy?” headache later.
Get easy care and confidence from day one.
Prep the bed for drainage and root growth, then let consistency do the rest. Deep, less-frequent watering is commonly recommended over constant light sprinkling, and a widely used rule of thumb is about 1 inch of water per week for established plantings (adjusted for heat and rainfall), applied to the root zone rather than wetting the leaves.
Pruning and cleanup timing depends on the plant, but the broad rule is straightforward: cut back herbaceous perennials after several hard frosts if you want a clean winter look, or leave tops standing to help catch insulating leaves/snow and support overwintering—then cut back in early spring. Deadheading after bloom is often helpful for tidiness and, for many plants, more flowering—unless you’re letting seedheads stand for wildlife or winter interest.